A guide to my favourite places to eat on the Costa Brava
I have been wrestling with whether or not to write about my love for this region in the north-east of Spain for some time and my mother told me not to.
You see, the thing is, we don’t want anyone else to know about it.
But then, that defeats the object of having a travel blog, I guess. So, I am writing it, but thinking I might delete it at some point.
Where is el Baix Empordà?
El Baix Empordà is the name of this county in the Girona municipality (you’ll also see ‘Gerona’ on signs – the former is the Catalan spelling and the latter Spanish). It’s found in Catalonia; a fiercely independent land, rich in gastronomy, culture and language, and very different to much of the rest of Spain, in many ways.
My particular affection is honed in on the coastal area around the medieval hilltop town of Begur, at the heart of the Empordà region, where you’ll find some of the most wonderful spots on the Costa Brava.
Begur is perched high above some precious coves, or ‘calas’, as well as the sweeping bay of L’Estartit (above), a family resort where the Philippe Cousteau Foundation has decided to establish its world headquarters, raising awareness of the need to conserve the seas and oceans.
This is largely due to the Medes Islands, situated 2km off the coast; one of the most beautiful marine reserves in the western Mediterranean and a haven for divers.
Beaches of the Costa Brava
Meaning ‘wild’ or ‘rough’ coast, the Costa Brava stretches from Blanes, 37 miles north-east of Barcelona, up to the French border; just 75 miles in total.
There are many beautiful little coastal villages along the Costa Brava, such as Sa Tuna, Aiguablava (first picture) and Tamariu which are like ghost towns in the winter, but are heaving (and difficult to find somewhere to park in) during peak season.
L’Estartit has an endless expanse of sand and there are also many hidden coves, which you are unlikely to stumble upon without doing your research, my favourites of which are Cala El Golfret, Cala Treumal (above) and Cala Giverola. Great eating can be found in every corner of this land and it’s not unusual to go out for dinner at 10pm or even later.
You may have to walk a way to get to some of the more remote beaches, but they are worth it. If, like me, you demand a sun lounger and say a firm ‘no’ to putting a towel down on the sand, Treumal and Giverola have them to hire in peak season (check in advance).
The Camí de Ronda is a footpath which was built in the 19th century along the Costa Brava to help authorities control the coast and stop smuggling, linking many of the small tourist beaches and coastal towns.
Where to eat on the Costa Brava
My love affair has a good bit to do with the food; one of the many appeals of this region. The Costa Brava delivers spankingly good, fresh seafood, while the earth of El Baix Empordà is tremendously fertile and also produces some cracking wines.
At the top end, Empordà is globally renowned for its gastronomy and is the birthplace of some world-famous chefs, such as Ferran Adria, of the former El Bulli, and the Roca brothers of El Cellar de Can Roca in Girona – both consistently voted among the best restaurants in the world.
My recommendations include beach bars and a 12th-century castle. Here are some of my favourites:
Off the tourist route, in the small, olde worlde village of Palau-Sator, this is not Spain as we know it. In fact, some would argue it’s not Spain at all; it’s Catalonia.
This total gem of a restaurant is within a grand and beautiful old farmhouse, or ‘mas’, and when we visited in September, the weather was a unexpectedly damp and miserable, but the welcome we received was far from it.
A restaurant owner friend introduced us to Mas Pou (see Garbi below) and everyone at the table was elated that he did.
Our friend (Primo) chose the mixed starters (entrants variats) for everyone at the table. This comprised salad with fresh local cheese, duck ham, cod fritters, meat croquettes, duck pate, toast with escalivada (Catalan ratatouille), pastis de truites (a cake or sandwich of Spanish omelette, vegetables and, I think, salmon) and tiny snails with garlic and tomato, all with deliciously thin and crispy coca (or glass) bread, rubbed with garlic and tomatoes, and drizzled with olive oil (€14.90 per person). The food just kept coming!
There followed a feeding frenzy and, in hindsight, we should have paced ourselves, because after that came the food coma! The problem was, every mouthful was delicious.
For the main course, I was recommended the duck with pears (€17.90), which was mouthwatering and surprisingly light, which was a blessing. Being full to bursting, I also had a dessert, as one does. Who can say no to the cracking top of a crema catalana, though?
To round the meal off, we were each served a glass of ratafia (see above), a traditional liqueur made from the maceration of green walnuts and a diversity of herbs and plants, deeply rooted in different Catalan regions. In the EU, the Catalan ratafia is recognised as a Protected Geographical Indication.
They grow many of their own vegetables and their olive oil is made nearby too, from centuries old trees. I will definitely go back. Everything about it was 10 out of 10. Thanks, Primo.!
The name literally means ‘touch the sea’ and that is an indication of how close you are to the Mediterranean in this fish lovers’ culinary paradise in Aiguablava. The photo above is a view over the restaurant in the foreground, taken on the route up to the stunning Parador de Aiguablava, where we love to stay.
Hovering above the sand, steps away from the entrance to the beach (there is one main building and others which open up during peak season), you’ll be greeted by the tantalising waft of fish grilling over oak fires on your approach. Booking is essential and try to get a seat by the railing in the primary open-air dining room (OCD I).
You’ll be proudly shown the choice of the locally-caught fish of the day (€83 per kilo), but don’t make the mistake I made and order one huge fish for one person. That said, I ate every last mouthful of my sole, though!
Fish is served simply and deliciously. Choose from sea bream, bass, snapper, scorpion fish, sole and monkfish, as well as fresh prawns from Palamós, mussels, clams, razor clams, lobster, octopus and hake, among others.
There is also a full menu and paella Toc al Mar is €25 per person and can be served in individual portions (in many local restaurants it’s only served for a minimum of two people).
There’s also a great wine list which is full, but not exhaustingly extensive. Choose something from Empordà!
You’ll meet the sweetest, kindest waiting staff at Can Pau on Passeig Maritim in L’Estartit, whom we’ve known for 50 years.
Run by Pau and Jaume’s family, we used to love the ‘canelones’ they served at their beach bar (bring them back!) and were delighted when they opened this quality restaurant a few years ago, proudly using the finest Catalan ingredients.
I can’t find a menu and prices online, but the ‘Iberian secret’ (pork), cappaccio of beef and croquetes (I am thinking about writing a ‘guide to the finest croquetes of Catalonia’) are among the star dishes.
If you go, tell Jaume I sent you!
This sunny xiringuito at the top of the boardwalk, under the towering Roca Maura, in L’Estartit is everything you want from a beach bar – and lord knows how they relentlessly emerge from the teeny-weeny tardis of a kitchen with so many tasty morsels.
Open daily until 9pm in peak season (they pull an all-nighter for the festival of San Joan in June), you can swing by here for a cocktail under the awning and tap your feet to the happy playlist while surveying the sands, or feast on freshly cooked tapas all day long.
Dishes are only a few Euros each (we had lunch with wine for four most days and it never cost more than €50-€60 in total).
At the end of the jetty in L’Estartit, the original Can Pau used to be a small ice cream kiosk but has now blossomed into this lovely spot to watch the boats in the harbour – or indeed enjoy a martini as you leave the beach!
The entrepans (Catalan for sandwiches) here can’t be beaten. Fresh crusty baguettes rubbed with garlic and drizzled with olive oil are then filled with tortilla, chorizo, tuna, pork, ham…
Totally inexpensive and charming.
As mentioned in my blog post about travelling with elderly parents, my dad subtly dropped the hint that he wanted to eat at Mas de Torrent, an 18th century former noble house, now a five star hotel and spa hidden in the peaceful fields of Empordà, for his 89th birthday.
We dined in August, during peak season but were still met by an oasis of calm and luxury, far from the madding crowds of the costa.
We pre-ordered the tasting menu (€70 per head) and sat back and let the confidently charming staff guide us though endless courses, which included starters: courgette carpaccio with Empordà cheese, roast meat croquette and cod fritters with ‘esqueixada’.
Then came charcoal roasted aubergine with marinated tuna and creamy chickpeas, chargrilled turbot with fried garlic and black garlic velouté and then charcoal roasted Empordà duck with plums, watercress and purslane.
Desserts comprised a selection of three artisanal cheeses with and Catalan ‘xuixo’. The bread was so darn good, it came as its own course and I believe I’m right in saying the lightly sparkling water was Mas de Torrent’s own.
Off the tasting menu, starters range from €14 to €28 and main courses are priced from €24 to €32.
One day, I will stay there too – and I know I will love every second.
I don’t believe there is any warmer welcome than the one you will receive from Primo and his lovely team at this happy eatery on Passeig Maritim in Estartit, who are simply the friendliest.
When we stay in L’Estartit, we are here at least once a day, whether for a drink or food, thanks to being introduced by some lovely Dutch friends.
My sister said the steak she had here was among the best she’d ever had and the decidedly un-Catalan pulpo a la gallega is addictive. Try the sumptuous beef carpaccio with truffle ice cream or the suquet de peix (Catalan fish stew), which simply scrummy!
Voted one of the top 15 wedding venues in Europe, this is a magnificent castle-turned four-star hotel perched high above the Empordà countryside where you can also enjoy a simply stunning meal in fairy tale surroundings.
A castle was first recorded here in the 1300s and it has connections with local icon Salvador Dali (he wanted to buy it, but the owner refused his payment of art, wanting hard cash instead). He went on to buy another local castle.
We went here as I had seen it all over Instagram and felt I was severely missing out – plus my sister had never had a tasting menu (€69).
It was vast and included dishes like tomato salad with parmesan crumble, royal crab with parmesan mousse, baked sea bass with rice cake paella and fish suquet, homemade gnocchi (with more parmesan) and entrecote with red wine jus and mashed potato with Comté cheese. In hindsight, I should have called ahead and asked them to hold the cheese (I am not a fan), but that’s my error, not the Castell’s.
A stunning location in a magical setting.
We came here looking for the beach but were doubly delighted when we found the great xiringuito (or beach restaurant) too which is in a slightly elevated position and hence has great views over one of our all-time favourite beaches.
While it’s only a hop, skip and a jump from Lloret de Mar, which has been called the Las Vegas of Europe, it feels like a different world.
The first time we came here, it was towards the holiday and my sister was gagging for some vegetables, having mostly eaten rice, bread, fish and meat all week. Her eyes lit up when the grilled vegetables in Romesco sauce arrived (€14.80), which we had with patatas braves (€6.80), more croquetes (Catalan spelling) as we can’t go a day without them (€8.40) and grilled sardines (€15).
Just then, a storm erupted, which gave us an excuse to linger longer and have the crema Catalana (€6.80). Damn shame, that.
As you sit in this tiny cobbled square in gothic Pals, with its stone streets, bridges, arches, and monuments, you feel that you are surrounded by history.
Late at night, the streets are illuminated and the heat bounces off the walls of the neighbouring buildings as you eat in this ludicrously pretty town, having negotiated a maze of tiny streets to reach the restaurant.
We visit every year and each time, I find it hard not to have the avocado with prawns (€12.50), which could easily feed two people, and the melt in your mouth roast shoulder of lamb (€22).
Every year, we play the €5 game, when we disperse at different times during the holiday to find the most atrocious gifts we can, recipients having been selected Secret Santa-style, and the big reveal happens on the last night, when gifts are given and the worst is chosen as the winner.
Last year, our last night was at Can Pedró and I herewith formally apologise for the level of tat the waiting staff witnessed.
The Sun Lounger 
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